Skate with Shiitake Mushrooms and Roasted Hazelnuts

Most people have never heard of skate, a cousin to the stingray, but its wing-like pectoral fins have a delicious, extremely delicate flesh that is slightly sweet and reminiscent of crab or lobster meat. It's one of my favorite types of seafood but isn't very common, so if you do find it at the fish market or your local grocery store, snatch it up and try it - I doubt you will regret it! Just be sure to have the cartilage, which is tough and inedible, removed before you prepare it. (Trust me, removing it yourself is a pain in the ass.)

Skate, being a mild fish, tastes best when it is prepared with somewhat rich or strong tasting ingredients, whereas a fish that is stronger tasting to begin with such as salmon ought to be prepared more simply - even with just extra-virgin olive oil, salt and pepper - in order to allow the natural flavor, which can stand on its own, to shine.

I've prepared skate the traditional way before - a la Grenobloise (in the style of Grenobole in the Dauphine region of France), with brown butter, capers, parsley, lemon juice, diced lemon, and tiny croutons.



But I prefer the version in the following recipe (slightly adapted from a recipe by the very talented Daniel Boulud), which marries the rich, earthy flavors of the shiitake mushrooms and crunchy roasted hazelnuts sautéed in butter with the tender, mild flesh of the skate. The richness of the dish was cut with the acidity of fresh lemon, which provided a wonderful tang. What an incredible combination of tastes and textures!

FYI, Hazelnuts are rich in protein, dietary fiber, iron, calcium and vitamin E. Like all nuts, they contain a lot of fat but over 80% of the total fat in hazelnuts is monounsaturated (healthy fat).

Skate with Shiitake Mushrooms and Roasted Hazelnuts Adapted from Daniel Boulud's Food and Wine recipe Ingredients: • ½ cup hazelnuts • 3 medium shallots, minced • 2 garlic cloves, halved • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened • ½ pound shiitake mushrooms • leaves from 2 thyme sprigs • Salt and freshly ground pepper • 1½ - 2 pounds skate wing fillets, cleaned and cut into 4 equal portions (about 6 ounces each portion) • 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil • ½ lemon, peeled, sectioned and diced • 2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice Directions: 1. Preheat the oven to 170°F. Spread the hazelnuts in a pie plate or baking pan and toast for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. (You can also roast the hazelnuts at a higher temperature, if your oven's settings don't go as low as 170°F, but you do risk destroying the healthy fats. I roasted mine at 300°F - the lowest temperature setting on my oven - for about 10 minutes.) Let cool for about 10 minutes, then place them on a kitchen towel and rub them together to remove the skins. Some of the bits of skin may remain. Coarsely chop them and set aside. 2. Wipe the mushrooms with a damp paper towel, then dry them with another paper towel (washing them will cause them to become soggy). Remove the stems from the mushrooms, then cut the caps into 1-inch pieces. 3. In a medium skillet, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter over moderately low heat and sauté the shallots and garlic until softened, 4 minutes. Add the mushrooms and thyme, and season with salt and pepper. Continue to sauté the mixture, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms are tender, about 5 minutes. Discard the garlic and thyme. Reserve a third of the mixture. Purée the remaining mushroom mixture. 4. Cut each skate wing in half crosswise and season with salt and pepper. Spread 4 of the skate pieces with a quarter of the mushroom puree. Cover with the remaining skate wing, pressing the packets together. 5. In a large skillet, heat the oil until shimmering. Add the skate packets and cook over high heat until browned and crisp on the bottom, about 4 minutes. Flip the packets, lower the heat to moderate and add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter, the reserved mushroom mixture, the hazelnuts, diced lemon and lemon juice. Cook until the skate is just white throughout, 4 minutes. Transfer the skate to plates, and top with the mushrooms, nuts and lemon and serve.

Mixed Microgreens Salad with Soft Cheese, Toasted Almonds, and Poached Duck Egg

Poaching eggs is a lot more difficult than it seems. There are numerous different methods: with or without salt, with or without vinegar, in plastic wrap (as shown here ) or dropped into water that has been stirred creating a "tornado". It will take some practice before I get good at poaching eggs because you have to get the timing exactly right and make sure that the egg keeps together when it cooks. However, I'm very pleased with the flavor of duck eggs - it's stronger than that of chicken eggs, just as duck meat is stronger in flavor than chicken meat (at least the white meat). The other difference is that duck eggs are larger in size. So far, I have been poaching the duck eggs, but in the future, I plan to experiment with baking with them in cookies or cakes, or using them in other recipes that require eggs. But first, I want to get poaching them down - I feel like it's one of those basic skills that a chef or a good home cook has to master.

Mixed Microgreens Salad with Soft Cheese, Toasted Almonds, and Poached Duck Egg Ingredients: • 1 pound mixed microgreens (pea shoots, micro mesclun, etc) • ½ cup soft white cheese, crumbled • ½ cup toasted almonds • 1 tablespoon black pepper • 1 tablespoon salt • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil • 2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar • 4 free-range duck eggs • a pinch of paprika Directions: 1. Wash and spin the microgreens to get rid of excess water. 2. Bring a pan of cold water to a boil and stir the water, creating a "tornado". Drop an egg into the center of the tornado and cook for 4-6 minutes, depending on how running you want the yolk to be. Remove the egg from the heat and drop it into a bowl of ice water, to stop the cooking. 3. Dress the microgreens with a mixture of olive oil and balsamic vinegar, then sprinkle with almonds. Place a poached duck egg on each salad, and add a pinch of paprika. Season the entire salad with salt and pepper, according to taste.

Slow-Cooked Wild King Salmon with Shallots-Basil Topping

My favorite way to cook to wild salmon is to slow cook it - this is by far, the most moist, tender version of salmon I've ever had! It's also really easy to make, and you just pop it into the oven and let the oven do all the work. This salmon is so delicious, it doesn't even really need any fancy sauces or toppings; it's wonderful just by itself with some olive oil drizzled on top and good ol' salt and pepper. You don't want to overwhelm the beautiful flavor of wild salmon, so if you do make a topping, you want to go easy!

Here are some ideas for salmon flavorings:
-add honey or fresh fruit for some sweetness: honey, turmeric, and powdered fennel seed is a possibility, or you could go for a tropical fruit salsa with finely diced mango, strawberries, pineapple, tomato, and apple (or whatever fresh fruits are in season; a great summertime version would be avocado, peach, and plum), a dash of salt and pepper, and freshly squeezed lime juice.
-a bit of spiciness: chili powder or cayenne
-a savory herb topping: shallots and fresh chiffonade basil (a personal favorite)
-a citrus topping: fresh dill and freshly squeezed lemon, for example
-a crunchy topping: brown rice cereal, crushed almonds or other nuts, etc
-aioli (a garlic-infused mayonnaise): to be spread on the salmon after it is done cooking

In the pictured version, I went with wild king salmon seasoned with salt and pepper, and a bit of olive oil drizzled on top with a side of tomatoes, green beans, and brown rice. However, other types of salmon are delicious too. Here is a summary of the different wild salmon types I've tried: Alaskan king (Chinook) salmon has a firm flesh, a red color, and are high in oil content, resulting in an extra-rich flavor, which is highly prized among salmon-lovers. I've also tried Copper River king salmon, which was absolutely delicious but ridiculously expensive. Sockeye (red) salmon also has a rich flavor due to its high concentration of oils and a rich red, firm flesh that maintains its color throughout cooking, as you can see in the photo. Coho (silver) salmon has a mild and sweet taste, slightly milder than that of the Sockeye, and the flesh is leaner, firmer, and has a more delicate texture than other salmon. Steelhead Trout (which is technically a type of Rainbow Trout, rather than a type of salmon, but is so similar in color, taste and texture to salmon that it is often categorized as salmon) has a tender flesh and a mild, somewhat nutty flavor. I personally tend to prefer the oilier, richer-tasting types of salmon.

Slow-Cooked Wild King Salmon with Shallots-Basil Topping Adapted from Alice Waters' Chez Panisse Café Cookbook Ingredients: • 1 king salmon fillet, 0.3-0.4 lb • extra-virgin olive oil • salt • pepper • for the salmon topping: finely sliced shallots and fresh chiffonade basil (chiffonade means "to shred", where you slice an herb into long, thin strips), or any other topping you prefer Directions: 1. Preheat the oven to 250°F, and place a pan of water on the lowest rack in the oven, which will create a humid environment to keep the salmon moist. 2. Lightly brush or spray a baking pan with olive oil, or alternatively, wrap a baking pan with aluminum foil (good for you lazy dish washers...) Brush the salmon with olive oil and season generously with salt and freshly ground pepper and place the topping of your choice on the salmon. Place the salmon in the baking dish and put it in the oven for about 30 min. The salmon is cooked when the juices are beginning to collect on top of the fillet and fat is starting to ooze out of its sides; the color was remain essentially the same, so don't judge by the color! 3. Let the salmon rest for at least 10 min at room temperature.

Heirloom and Cherry Tomato Salad

Tomatoes are one of those vegetables that I enjoy both raw and cooked, probably because they're naturally sweet. And who doesn't like tomatoes? I've never heard anyone say they don't like tomatoes, whereas other vegetables have their fair share of fans as well as non-fans. This tomato salad takes advantage of the many different varieties of tomatoes, including -- mini heirloom tomatoes of all different colors; large heirloom tomatoes on the vine, and cherry tomatoes.

Heirloom and Cherry Tomato Salad From Alice Waters' Chez Panisse Café Cookbook Ingredients: • 1 (½-pint) basket assorted cherry tomatoes • 2 pounds heirloom tomatoes, different colors and sizes • 1 shallot, diced fine • 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar (I used balsamic vinegar instead) • 1 garlic clove, smashed • Salt • ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil • Pepper • Green and purple basil leaves, chopped • Lemon cucumbers and torpedo onions (optional) Directions: 1. Stem the cherry tomatoes and cut them in half. Core the larger tomatoes and cut them into slices or wedges. 2. For the vinaigrette, macerate the shallot in the vinegar with the garlic and a little salt. Whisk in the oil. Taste and adjust the acidity and salt as necessary. Put the tomatoes in a shallow salad bowl or on a platter. Season with salt and pepper, strew on the chopped basil leaves, and carefully dress with the vinaigrette. 3. (optional) Thin slices of peeled lemon cucumber and torpedo onion are wonderful additions to the salad. 4. For a more elegant tomato salad, slice perfectly ripe heirloom tomatoes and arrange them on a platter. Season with salt and pepper, a splash of good Champagne, and a generous drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil.